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Turtles & Tortoises
Nutrition
One of the most common problems encountered when raising turtles
& tortoises involves improper nutrition. Variety in the diet, and
using the proper dietary supplements remain the keys to keeping your pet
healthy and maintaining healthy growth. In addition, pelleted foods for
all types of turtles are becoming more popular. Many pet stores that sell
reptiles offer these pellets as well.
Aquatic Turtles:
Young turtles under one year of age should receive about 25% vegetables
& fruit in the diet. The other 75% should be made up of a commercially
prepared food (Purina Trout Chow is good) that is high in protein, and
is to some extent meat-based. Commercially prepared foods are preferable
because they are vitamin supplemented and are less likely to be contaminated
with parasites or bacteria. If you do not wish to use, or cannot find
a commercially prepared pellet, you can substitute a combination of earthworms,
dry dog food, small fish, pinkies (day old mice), shrimp meal, spinach,
carrots, broccoli, and mustard greens. Pet-Cal tablets can be used as
a Calcium/Vitamin D supplement, and Pet Tabs (For Dogs) can be used as
a multivitamin supplement for turtles not on pelleted food. Feed these
tablets, broken into small pieces, on feeding days. Young turtles need
to be fed daily, while adults only need 2-3 feedings weekly. Water turtles
need to be fed in water, and for ease of cleaning, should be fed in a
separate tank. If you’re lucky they’ll defecate there too.
Tortoises:
Need a more vegetarian diet. Only 15% of the diet should be made up of
high protein sources, like dog food. Tortoises prefer dandelions, fresh
fruit and mixed vegetables. Large tortoises also need a higher level of
calcium in their diet. Foods like alfalfa, prickly pear cactus pads, mulberry
leaves, palm fronds, and banana leaves supply high calcium. Tortoises
and land turtles will also, usually preferentially eat red foods.
Feedings are usually done daily, but you may have luck with 2-3 weekly
feedings as well.
Box Turtles:
Need a 50/50 split of high protein foods and fruits and vegetables. Dog
food (Like Cycle 4 or Gaines Burgers), earthworms and pinkies should be
added to a mixture of diced, bite-sized fruits and vegetables. Bananas,
peaches, pears, papayas, frozen mixed vegetables, mushrooms, squash, and
yams are good sources of nutrition. To these you can add, yogurt, hard
boiled egg and cottage cheese as a treat.
Feedings are usually done daily, but you may have luck with 2-3 weekly
feedings as well.
Temperature:
Turtles require a water temperature of 70-80 degrees in their enclosures.
Because of this, they will need an external heat source like a typical
aquarium water heater. There should also be a dry land area set up for
basking. An incandescent light bulb or heat lamp can be used for supplemental
heat.
Tortoises need temperatures in the 80-85 degree range, with an area constructed
for shade.
Box Turtles need temperatures in the 75-80 degree range, with an area
for shade. You can use a heating pad, placed underneath the cage with
a ¼ inch space for air circulation. You can use heat lamps and
incandescent bulbs can be used, and can direct heat to one portion of
the cage, but can sometimes be too hot.
Ultraviolet Light Source:
Like all animals, turtles & tortoises need an ultraviolet light source
to synthesize Vitamin D, which is crucial for proper calcium metabolism.
Sunlight filtered through windows or cage glass is insufficient, because
glass and most plastics filter UV rays out. Box Turtles & Tortoises
should spend two to three hours in direct sun every day. Plus they will
also need an interior source for fall, spring & winter. What works
best is to find a lightbulb specifically manufactured to help grow plants
indoors, or one made for reptile habitats. Those lights are manufactured
to provide a good source of Ultraviolet-A radiation. Blacklights are not
very popular anymore. You can find a good incandescent light that throws
off UVA radiation, and that should serve its purpose.
Incandescent
Blacklight
> 5 Feet from Cage
< 18 Inches from Cage
on 10 -12 hours daily on 8 hours daily
replace every 6 - 7 months replace every 6 - 12 months
Many people now think reptiles are also well served by
having a source of Ultraviolet-B light over their cages. Almost all of
the UV-B lights available are of the fluorescent type, and they are best
found at pet stores which sell reptiles. These lights should be changed
every 6 months as well.
Housing:
Aquatic Turtles: Any enclosure should provide an adequate area for swimming
and an area for basking. If there is no basking area, many small turtles
will become exhausted and may drown. A platform of rocks or a firmly secured
piece of wood may be used. Many pieces of wood will need to be weighed
down to prevent tipping. If an aquarium is to be used, a pane of glass
can be inserted to divide the space into 1/3 basking & 2/3 swimming
areas. Fine sand should be used as a covering for the tank bottom, because
gravel can be abrasive and can cause an obstruction if swallowed. The
basking area can be filled with large core gravel, and then covered with
plants or sand.
Tap water is probably safe for most turtles, provided it sits for 48 hours
prior to use. Bottled water is safer, as it is not subject to variations
in iron content or fluoridation levels. If a species requires brackish
water (Like Diamondback Terrapins) 1 tbsp of uniodized salt/gallon is
appropriate. Adding small amounts of vinegar to keep the pH 6.0-6.5 may
help retard bacterial growth. A teaspoon of noniodized aquarium salt/gallon
may also help in hygiene.
It is important to have a cage, which is hygienic and is easy to clean.
Most bacterial & fungal infections can be directly traced to stool
contamination and a damp, must environment. The cage bottom should be
covered with newspaper or butcher paper +/- indoor /outdoor carpeting.
Several pieces of carpeting should be used so one is drying while the
other is in use. Avoid corncobs, wood shavings, kitty litter, fine gravel,
sand or sawdust. This material is easily contaminated, and can be ingested
causing life-threatening obstructions. Avoid moss or naturally growing
grass, as their high moisture content can be a problem. Once any urine
or fecal matter contaminates the enclosure, it should be cleaned. Avoid
using pine scented cleaners and Lysol. They can be toxic.
A firmly attached branch or non-resinous hardwood (oak, birch, apple,
pear, or cherry) should be placed in the cage. Make sure the diameter
of the branch allows for easy grasping. Driftwood, grapevines or ropes
can enrich the environment. Silk, artificial plants are easy to keep clean,
and, unlike plastic plants, are not a potential source of obstructions.
Real plants are fine, but make sure they aren’t toxic.
An area should be set up as a hiding place. Reptiles feel more comfortable
if they feel secure. Some will not eat if denied a place to hide.
One Turtles per cage is best. They are very territorial and may fight.
Salmonella:
Salmonella is commonly associated with food poisoning in people but is
a normal organism found in the digestive tract of most reptiles. Because
of that, after handling turtles & tortoises, it is best to wash your
hands. Also, ban him from your kitchen for safety’s sake. Any reptile
crawling around on your countertops is dangerous to you and to him.
The best cleaners for reptile enclosures are the Quaternary Ammonium compounds,
and they kill salmonella as well. The Wipe Out line of products are an
excellent cleaning solution. The typical turtle tank should be completely
taken apart and cleaned once weekly. This helps contain the spread of
disease and parasites as well.
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