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Green Iguanas
Nutrition:
One of the most common problems encountered when raising iguanas involves
improper nutrition. Variety in the diet, and using the proper dietary
supplements remain the keys to keeping your pet healthy and maintaining
healthy growth.
Iguanas less than 2 years old should be fed daily. After that they should
be fed 2-3 times weekly. Despite past opinions to the contrary, Iguanas
of any age are vegetarians. This recent discovery, and contradicts what
you may find in older instruction manuals which recommend feeding dog
food and high protein diets to young iguanas so they can receive the high
calcium which is required for proper growth. We now know that iguanas
in the wild eat primarily leaves and flowers that are naturally high in
calcium, and if that is not duplicated in captivity they are open to the
development of soft bones and non-healing fractures, as well as seizures
and sudden death.
Good foods:
Collard Greens, bok choy (A Chinese vegetable), turnip greens, mustard
greens, kale, broccoli leaves (not the tops), dandelion greens, fig leaves,
mulberry leaves, and the flowers from Hibiscus, Eugenia & Nasturtiums
Foods to supplement primary sources above:
Yellow squash, pasta, string beans, bean sprouts, tofu, figs, egg whites
Avoid like the plague:
Lettuce, spinach, celery, cucumbers and fruit
The foods that are best for iguanas are those that are
high in calcium. Because of this, it would be a good idea to also supplement
juvenile iguanas twice weekly with a multivitamin and Calcium supplement.
Reptical, Vita-life, Nekton-Rep and other multivitamin powders developed
for reptiles can be sprinkled on the foods above. Other good sources of
calcium include Calcium Carbonate powder (From health food stores), ground
cuttlebone, ground eggshells, palm fronds, mulberry leaves, Tums, and
parmesan cheese. Once iguanas reach 2 years of age, the supplement should
be reduced to once weekly.
Many people feed mealworms and crickets to their iguanas. Beware, because
these foods are low in calcium, and more than one iguana has been known
to become a cricket junkie. THIS CAN BE LIFE-THREATENING! If you do feed
mealworms, rear them on a poultry egg-laying feed (8-12% Calcium) for
1-2 weeks prior to feeding. If purchased at a pet store, spray them with
aerosolized vegetable oil, then dust them with one of the powders mentioned
above. Be very careful of mealworms. Their chitinous exoskeleton can cause
obstruction problems in small reptiles, so feed them within 24 hours of
a molt. I no longer recommend feeding crickets or mealworms to iguanas
unless they refuse to eat anything else.
Temperature:
Iguanas require a temperature of 85 - 103 degrees in their enclosures.
Because of this, they will need an external heat source and a glass or
plastic cover to their enclosure. Be careful with a wire mesh top to ensure
that the temperature stays optimum. Wire will not keep the heat localized
in the cage and may lead to chilling.
The safest source of heat comes from a source outside the cage. Placing
a heating pad underneath the cage provides for a good heat source. Elevate
the cage ¼ inch above the pad for maximum safety. An overhead light,
illuminating ½ the cage space is good too. You want to pick a light
that provides the optimum Ultraviolet light source as well (see below).
Iguanas like to get their heat sources from basking, so this provides
the closest environment to their natural habitat.
Many people also use a red light, which is left on 24 hours a day as a
heat source for their reptiles. Reptiles do not see the red light so they
believe its nighttime when the red light is the only one in the cage turned
on. Also the heat provided by these overhead lights is absorbed by the
lizard while he is basking as well.
Hot rocks and sizzle stones are electronically heated elements that are
designed for use in the cage. Often the cord will become frayed and bitten
with time resulting in electrocution. With larger iguanas, the stone will
not heat their entire body, and while they are waiting for that part of
their body to heat up, they can suffer very severe burns. I do not recommend
hot rocks or sizzle stones, I believe they are too dangerous.
Humidity:
Reptiles also need high humidity to maintain proper health. The plants
in the cage (whether plastic or real) should be misted with water twice
daily. This also provides a water source for the iguana. A ceramic bowl
should be filled with water and placed in the cage as well. Iguanas will
use this as a bath, so change the water daily. Reptiles also love to be
misted themselves. The more often you do this the better. You can even
buy misters to install in the cage to maintain humidity. Remember most
lizards come from humid tropical regions, as well as most snakes and many
turtles and tortoises as well.
Ultraviolet Light Source:
Like all animals, iguanas need an ultraviolet light source to synthesize
Vitamin D, which is crucial for proper calcium metabolism. Sunlight filtered
through windows or cage glass is insufficient, because glass and most
plastics filter UV rays out. During the summer, a few hours in direct
sun will help, but you will also need an interior source for fall, spring
& winter.
Ultraviolet light is divided into two types, UVA and UVB. For Green Iguanas,
the UVA is the most important light source. UVA is what most incandescent,
plant growing light bulbs are designed to emit, and one of those will
provide daylight for the lizard as well as the UVA source. Blacklights
are becoming less popular now, but many do emit UVA as well.
Incandescent
Blacklight
> 5 Feet from Cage < 18 Inches from Cage
on 10 -12 hours daily on 8 hours daily
replace every 6 - 7 months replace every 6 - 12 months
Ultraviolet B light is usually only available in fluorescent
type light bulbs. This light is very helpful to use with Green Iguanas.
For chameleons, and meat eating lizards the UVB is as important as the
UVA and both light sources should be used. The UVB fluorescent type lights
need to be replaced every 6 months or so.
It is important to try and duplicate the natural light and dark cycles
of the day. If you leave these visible lights on 24/7 then it will disrupt
the natural rhythms in the lizard, and that may lead to lethargy and anorexia.
Some people even do longer days in the summers and shorter ones in the
winter to make their lizards respond to the changes of the seasons. This
practice does seem to make for a healthier pet.
Housing:
It is important to have a cage, which is hygienic and is easy to clean.
Most bacterial & fungal infections can be directly traced to stool
contamination and a damp, must environment. The cage bottom should be
covered with newspaper or butcher paper +/- indoor/outdoor carpeting.
Several pieces of carpeting should be used so one is drying while the
other is in use. Avoid corncobs, wood shavings, kitty litter, fine gravel,
sand or sawdust. This material is easily contaminated, and can be ingested
causing life-threatening obstructions. Avoid moss or naturally growing
grass, as their high moisture content can be a problem. Once any urine
or fecal matter contaminates the enclosure, it should be cleaned. Avoid
using pine scented cleaners and Lysol. They can be toxic.
A firmly attached branch or non-resinous hardwood (oak, birch, apple,
pear, or cherry) should be placed in the cage. Make sure the diameter
of the branch allows for easy grasping. Driftwood, grapevines or ropes
can enrich the environment. Silk, artificial plants are easy to keep clean,
and, unlike plastic plants, are not a potential source of obstructions.
Real plants are fine, but make sure they aren’t toxic.
An area should be set up as a hiding place. Reptiles feel more comfortable
if they feel secure. Some will not eat if denied a place to hide.
One Iguana per cage is best. They are very territorial and may fight.
Salmonella:
Salmonella is commonly associated with food poisoning in people but is
a normal organism found in the digestive tract of most reptiles. Because
of that, after handling iguanas, it is best to wash your hands. Also,
ban him from your kitchen for safety’s sake. An iguana crawling
around on your countertops is dangerous to you and to him.
Keeping your iguanas environment as clean as is possible will prevent
the proliferation of these bacteria in the cage, and will keep both you
and your pet healthier. The best cleaners for reptile enclosures are the
Quaternary Ammonium compounds, and they kill salmonella as well. The Wipe
Out line of products are an excellent cleaning solution. The typical iguana
cage should be completely taken apart and cleaned once weekly. This helps
contain the spread of disease and parasites as well.
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